Les années folles
After the first world war, a liberation movement was born in France. The art of deco, more commonly called “Les années folles”. This period was a symbolic art between the two wars. People learned the pleasure of having fun and discovered culture. A cultural and social frenzy has transformed the city of Paris. New buildings were being built, new cars appeared, appliances changed... The party had become the watchword for this period to allow people to forget the horrors of war.
This image is from the archives of LIFE magazine first appeared on January 9, 1950. Copyright Getty Image
The rebirth after the war :
Some year after the end of the war, declared on 11 November 1918 after the signing of the armistice, a new wind blew over France. The new France was built, trying to forget the pain and grief caused by the war. Thanks to the help of the Americans, France can rebuild itself little by little and regain a taste for a peaceful life. Paris was at the heart of these celebrations.
An era of liberation and development for the French and Americans:
The Americans landed in Paris because of the expansion of Ku Klux Klan in their countries. They settle in Paris to take part in this period of permanent well-being. Thanks to them, French culture grew with the arrival of American music, such as jazz and swing, but especially the young American black dancer: Joséphine Baker. She will be the star of the Champs Elysées theatre. It was the symbol of the sexual liberation that exalted Paris at that time.
Photo by Hulton Archive/Getty Images
Creativity everywhere :
The twenties and their Follies were characterized by daily pleasure, the development of the arts, theatre, cinema, automobile... Novelty is the watchword of these years as the appearance of American musical culture with jazz, radio, cinema or household appliances. The Montparnasse district was the site of this renewal. The master words of this lifestyle were pleasure and exuberance. The era of the great moments with Joséphine Baker, Art Deco, the creation of Coco Chanel. Many Americans were returning to their countries, which were plagued by prohibition and conservatism.
The women who marked roaring twenties:
Many important women one marked these years. First of all the women who were in the world of the song or the dance are the ones who had an impact important for this period because thanks to her, the enjoyment and the pleasure was possible. Among them, certain names stand out more than from another one as Jeanne Bourgeois, more known under the name of Mistinguett. But the real «Queen de Montparnasse» as they called is Kiki de Montparnasse alias Alice Ernestine Prin, called so by the Japanese artist Foujita. It was her the muse of all Paris and these roaring twenties. Another important woman of these years is the American Josephine Baker, a singer and a dancer during this period. She is described as a Venus of ebony. She knew how to play her image of exotic sensualism and her Afro-American charm in the incredible swaying hips, as she pleases, creating then her own public character settled some emancipation, symbol of freedom. The 20s are known for its relation between society and fashion. Coco Chanel had understood, during this period the needlewoman revolutionizes the ethics of the garment of the woman. She uses a new fabric, Jersey. This fabric previously was only reserved for the underwear male. It was a big change in the world of fashion. She understood quickly the need for the woman after the war. It was necessary to create a garment in connection with the new mode life present. The look in a boy is thus is born. The women were not then any more prisoner of their garment is could party freely.
After the war: the new woman
The 1920s is an important year for women. The First World War was atrocious and left many widows and many constraints to work and life. A new way of life is born thus a new way of dressing that corresponds to this epoch. The dresses become shorter, the women free themselves from all constraints like the corsets and begin to wear clothes only for men at that time, like the pants. Even if the cuts remain straight, it remains very feminine, softened by fluid and delicate tissues. Comfort was paramount for women in their outfits. Through the fashion and outfits of women, their message of freedom and envy of being feminine could be seen. The so-called boyish cuts became very fashionable even if they did not resemble those of men. The place that the stars of cinema and theatre also took on an importance in the way that women wanted to dress.
A simple and sober fashion:
In the 1920s, the outfits became sober and simple. Right for women to be free from their movements and simpler than usual for men. The new materials very comfortable dress for everyone. The simplicity is done in the outfit but the main parts are the accessories: ribbons, stripes and laces. The wardrobes are then filled with a variety of clothing, from “Sportswear” outfits to the most sophisticated outfit such as cocktail dresses.
Photo by Kirn Vintage Stock/Corbis via Getty Images
Reinterpretation :
Today’s les années folles are an important source of inspiration for all fashion designers. During fashion week some collections are entirely dedicated to an interpretation of the 1920s in the way of today. Roberto Cavalli, Ralph Lauren or even Gucci... are very much inspired by those years. Charleston dresses embroidered with sequins or even pearls are still dresses that we can find in the guards-robes. Fashion is not the only nostalgic medium of those years. The cinema also makes many films on the theme of this golden age before the crisis. The most popular film and which has created a great excitement around it is Gatsby the magnificent, with as lead actor Leonardo DiCaprio. In France, the film that has made a lot of talk about him is The Artist, this silent film played during les années folles.
Copyright Marschesa Spring/Summer 2012 Fashion Show
During the last Haute Couture Fashion Week, a designer decided to devote his collection to the twenties. Stephane Rolland presented his collection in an emblematic place of les années folles, the Champs-Elysées theatre.
Copyright Stephane Rolland Spring/Summer 2019 Fashion Week Haute Couture
The 1920s are and will remain the golden age. Thanks to this post-war period, the world changed forever. Fashion took a completely different turn and never returned to what it was after that period of effervescence that was the crazy years. Nowadays, the boyish look is the most everyday look at all women. Decorative art has never so much built such a homogeneous and visual aesthetic, nourished by the culture and aesthetic avant-garde of these years.
Written by Manon Correale